It is peaceful now, just greensward like plush carpet to walk on - and think. The amphitheater is an expression of raw power, in this case the power of the Roman Empire. Here we see that rarest form - the military amphitheater. Normally, a group of wealthy Roman citizens would band together, and donate the money and resources necessary to build an arena for the civitas in which they lived. However, rarely, a Legion associated with a military camp or fortress would build a military amphitheater - with unusual results, as we shall see!
Julius Caesar made two brief forays to the southern fringes of the British Isles in 55 and 54 BCE, but found that there were no heaps of treasure to be had - and left. The Emperor Claudius ordered a permanent invasion in 43 CE, for political reasons; this was, indeed, successful, aided in part by the use of an armored elephant - one of the first instances of 'shock and awe'! A rapid advance by the Roman Legions to the west, north and northwest gave rise to a series of client kingdoms and allied tribes, with a strong Roman civil administration for the new Province of Britannia. Along with the civil servants came the permanent military presence - the Legions. The military surveyors, architects and engineers, who were attached to every Roman military formation, were soon occupied in building forts, then miles and miles of the straight Roman roads, then civic buildings in the major population centers, which soon formed close to these military camps.
Wherever the headquarters of a Legion was established traders came, offering horses, beaver pelts, amber, all manner of things - and yes, slaves, too. Eating places and inns sprang up, clustered around the military camp, and pretty soon a settlement was formed. These vici were not large but certainly enriched the life of the Legion.
This was the case with the Legio II Augusta, which became established on a site on the banks of the River Usk, close to what is now Newport in South Wales. Isca Augustus (or sometimes, Isca Silures) was to be home to the Legio II Augusta for more than 200 years, from 75 CE to around 300 CE, and was about 12 miles away from the Silures' tribal capital, Venta Silures (modern-day Caerwent). The Legion's engineers were extremely busy, for not only did they construct some of the most extensive and elaborate bath houses in the province, they also built the amphitheater you see above.
There are only three military amphitheaters known in the Province of Britannia (and one of these is attached to a small fort used by native Auxiliaries, and not a regular Legion). The two main military amphitheaters are at Deva (Chester) and here at Isca Augustus (Caerleon). The structure was built mostly in sandstone, along with tufa (a type of limestone) and tile; certain areas were plastered and decorated. There would be enough seating for the whole garrison (approximately 6,000) and a number of civilians also - the actual total is uncertain, as the posts which supported the auxiliary wooden seating have, of course, rotted away. There are no less than eight openings around this oval arena. The two principal entrances - those on the long axis of the oval - would be used by honored guests and high officials, who would enter in procession; these were called the porta pompae. The entrances on the short axis of the oval were for senior offices - who would occupy boxes - and would enter via these porta postica. The other four entrances, vomitoria, were for general admission.
Equipment and performers would usually enter via the porta postica, and this is where the remains of carceres, or pens for animals, have been found, along with wolf bones. When people think of amphitheaters they think of gladiatorial duels and fights involving animals -venationes. These were, however, subject to Imperial control, to prevent excessive expenditure on this type of entertainment. However, the Provincial Governor could sometimes allow these fights to take place, and there was nothing to prevent a Legion hiring professional bands of gladiators to stage fights (usually of a non-lethal nature). Also, by the second century CE, many Legions had gladiators on staff, as these professionals had been hired by many units to instruct individual Legionaries in superior fighting techniques. Indeed, the shape of this arena resembles the ludi, or the gladiator schools which were built in Rome. There is evidence of a shrine, possibly to Nemesis, the favorite of gladiators.
As well as these fights, it is thought likely that this amphitheater could also have been used for large scale arms and combat practice (despite the presence of a campus, or parade ground, not far away), enactments of battle scenes, tactical demonstrations and public displays, such as acrobatics and feats of strength. Despite the fact that Britannia's military amphitheaters are small, compared to those on the continent of Europe, and have no corridors to service the needs of the events being staged, or underground chambers for use as holding pits for beasts, etc., they are still impressive military structures.
As the strength of Rome declined, and more reliance was put on the native Romano-British Auxiliaries, the fortress of Isca Augustus fell into disuse. The last Legions were withdrawn from the island Province in 410 CE, and it was left to an uncertain fate.
In the Dark Ages that followed, many legends grew, and Caerleon became thought of as one of the possible sites for King Arthur's Camelot. It wasn’t until the establishment of a stone-built castle by the Normans, in the 13th century, that this place began to slowly grow again.
Now, when you stand in the amphitheater, you can almost feel the sand under your feet, and hear the roar of the beasts, matched only by the roar of the crowd. This site positively reeks of history. If you are ever in the County of Gwent, in South Wales, do NOT miss this; it is well worth the trip.
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